- GOTOH NS510TS-LS2 - Narrow Spaced Locking Saddle Bridge
- Made in Japan
- Available in Black, Chrome, Cosmo Black, and Gold
- Traditional 6-point tremolo
- Hardened (chromium molybdenum) steel base plate
- TS - Machined Steel Tremolo Block - Available in 37 and 42mm lengths
- Patented Locking Steel Saddles
- 10.5mm string spacing - Narrowing Spacing
- Includes Tremolo arm, spring, spring-holder, wrenches, and mounting screws
- Comes packaged in original branded GOTOH packaging...not bulk packaged
The 510T series of tremolo bridges is Gotoh's pursuit of greater tremolo functionality. It has a low-clearance arm system that is GOTOH's own design. To help guarantee a strong and hard-wearing tremolo pivot point, an extremely resilient chromium Molybdenum steel was used for the bridge plate.
MM or CM to Fractions of Inches
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Wanted to like this, but underwhelmed.
Have a partscaster with Warmoth body and neck, and was looking to get something a little different from the Super Vee Bladerunner I had on there. Always considered it a little on the stiff side in terms of bar action. And I wanted to see if the locking saddles added some tuning stability. The good: 1. Saddles are pretty substantial. Overall guitar tone was definitely better than the Wilkinson VSVG that preceded the Bladerunner, although wasn't really any better than the BR. 2. Solid, heavy construction. Looks good. The bad: 1. If you have a Warmoth body you'll need to trim some of the trem cavity because the bar container rubs against it when the bar is depressed. Nothing in the instructions to warn you about this either. Not a huge deal, but strike one. 2. According to the instructions you should get a 2mm and 1.5mm hex key. I got a 2mm and a 1.3mm. I do have 1.5's, but you know, that's not the point. These aren't cheap and they could at least send you the right accessories. 3. Not sure what the difference is, but 2 springs worked fine with the Bladerunner, but I needed 3 on this one to get a minimally floating setup. And it was actually stiffer than the Bladerunner. 4. The locking saddles look better in theory than they fare in practice. they sit way higher on the wound strings and they feel funny on the edge of my hand when I play. Not a fan, I think I'll be taking them off unless there's a major diff in tuning stability. 5. There's a screw at the bottom of the bar container that from the instructions looks like you should be able remove, but it doesn't look like there is any kind of screw or hex head to grab anything. No documentation on this either. Super Vee has them seriously beat here as well. Currently in the depths of buyer's remorse, but I'm going to give it a week or so. However, f I had to make a guess it would be that the Bladerunner is going back on pretty soon. I guess I can experiment with different springs, but when you factor in the issues with the cavity, wrong hex key, a manual that's an afterthought, etc. it's like, why waste that much more time. Will probably just put in on a guitar I don't use as much. If I need another bridge I'd probably go with another Bladerunner or try a Vega.
